Subject: “…Wine Has Evolved Remarkably Over The Last Few Decades, But I Can’t Think Of Any Place That Has Changed More Than Spain.”

"...Tensile wines distinguished by racy acids and aromatic precision."
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"The world of wine has evolved remarkably over the last few decades, but I can't think of any place that has changed more than Spain. All over the country, producers are reviving old traditions, inventing new styles, and, in general, raising quality to levels never seen before. They are exalting grapes that had been written off and expressions that had dismissed. Spain offers so much in wine that I find exciting.

Much of the work has been done by a new generation of farmers and producers, people who have been influenced not only by local traditions but by the worldwide conversation that has created communities linked by like-minded ideas."
Eric Asimov, New York Times
SPAIN: NEW ARRIVALS
CANTALAPIEDRA VITICULTORES
CASTILLA Y LEÓN MAJUELO LA OTEA PIE FRANCO 2018

"I love the 2018 Majuelo La Otea a very Burgundian expression of Verdejo from a vineyard planted ungrafted some 150 (!) years ago. It has a yeasty and flinty nose, quite unusual and personal, ripe without excess, expressive, fresh and balanced. The palate has a chalky texture and reveals rich and deep flavors and great freshness but doesn't lack ripeness. It's super tasty. The clusters were pressed and the juice put to ferment in 600-liter French oak barrels after letting it settle for 12 hours. It fermented very slowly until January 2020, the first 12 months in barrel and the following 11 in stainless steel. It was bottled unfiltered into 2,160 bottles and 30 magnums in August 2020. Bravo.”
94
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$58 → Buy

CUEVAS DE AROM
CAMPO DE BORJA TUCA NEGRA 2016
“The new top-of-the-range 2016 Tuca Negra Garnacha has a round palate with fleshy tannins and feels nicely balanced, even if the alcohol is on the higher side. Those white soils seem to impart a special elegance and freshness in the wines. The oak is nicely integrated and seems to have the balance and components for positive developments in the bottle. It has a saline twist in the finish that makes it very tasty. Only 953 bottles were filled in July 2018.”
94
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$119 → Buy

DIEGO MAGAÑA DOMINIO DE ANZA
BIERZO PARCELARIO I 2020
"There is no 2019, so we jumped to the 2020 Dominio de Anza Parcelario I from a vineyard in Otero on slate soils that fermented with 100% full clusters and matured in one 225-liter oak barrel. It's different from the wines from Valtuille and has more freshness. It has moderate ripeness and alcohol (12.7%); if Valtuille is more Rhône, this would be more Burgundy. I like this a little bit better than the El Rapolao. Unfortunately, there are only 300 bottles of this — it's what the vineyard delivers.”
96+
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$49 → Buy

DOMINIO DO BIBEI
RIBEIRA SACRA TINTO 2016
"Bright ruby. Seductive red and dark berry liqueur, allspice and floral aromas, along with hints of incense and smoky minerals. Juicy, seamless and energetic on the palate, offering densely packed black raspberry, cherry cola, mulberry and floral pastille flavors that show excellent clarity and back-end lift. Polished, well-knit tannins lend shape to a strikingly long, seamless finish that shows superb blue-fruit- and spice-driven persistence."
95
Josh Raynolds, Vinous
$59 → Buy

GUÍMARO
RIBEIRA SACRA A PONTE 2019
"The single-vineyard 2019 A Ponte was produced with grapes from vines planted in 2010, a vineyard that used to belong to the Guímaro family a long time ago that they had to buy again and replant. It's a blend of 30% Mencía and similar parts of Caíño, Merenzao, Brancellao and Sousón. All the grapes fermented together with 100% full clusters in closed troncoconic vats with a 50-day total maceration time and always matured in 500-liter barrels. It has less color and is rather light and ethereal compared to its siblings. All the 2019s are more closed than the 2020s, and the wines are more austere and, in general, have more depth and balance, with lower alcohol. This has 13% and a subtle nose of wild flowers and herbs, nuanced and complex. This is superb for such young vines. 4,000 bottles produced.”
95+
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$49 → Buy

GUÍMARO
RIBEIRA SACRA FINCA MEIXEMAN 2019

"The single-vineyard 2019 Finca Meixeman comes from one of their oldest vineyards, planted with a field blend of 80% Mencía and 20% Brancellao, Merenzao, Garnacha, Mouratón, Negreda and Sousón. It has an austere nose that benefitted from being in the glass for over one hour, so decanting in advance might be a good idea if you are going to pull the cork any time soon. It has subtle notes of violets and wild berries and herbs. It has 13% alcohol but, despite that, feels a little riper than the other 2019s, perhaps more approachable and gourmand. There are some 8,000 bottles.”
96
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$44 → Buy

LUIS A. RODRIGUEZ VAZQUEZ
RIBEIRO VIÑA DE MARTIN ESCOLMA BLANCO 2015
"The current vintage of the top of the range in white is the 2015 Viña de Martín Escolma Blanco. Luis Anxo talks about a very good vintage, and he's always quite prudent and humble, which means the vintage was no less than excellent, with perfect weather that allowed picking each plot of white at the right time and the red ripened properly. Here, he wants to express ‘our way of understanding wine: ancestral varieties and lands, manual and respectful viticulture, forcing low yields, minimal intervention and a relatively long time in the cellar. We want a complex wine, but direct and intimate.’ This is a blend of Treixadura Albariño, Lado and Torrontés from his oldest vineyards on poor soils that deliver one kilo per plant. Each plot ferments separately with indigenous yeasts in new or semi-new 300-, 500- or 600-liter oak barrels, where the wine is kept with lees for one year, then blended and bottled. It's kept three years in bottle and sold the November four years after the harvest. This is a quiet and serious wine, like its creator, subtle, elegant and nuanced. It has notes of herbs and spices, pollen and beeswax. This is a super balanced vintage, with ripeness, concentration, freshness and elegance in a rare combination. This feels very young and seems to be evolving at a very slow pace and should make old bones. I've had wines from Luis Anxo close to 30 years old, and they are still going strong, so my drinking window is very conservative. 4,800 bottles and 200 magnums were filled…”
95
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
$59 → Buy

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