"The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another notable success for Samuel Billaud this year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of white flowers, citrus oil, white currants, freshly baked bread, and beeswax, it's medium- to full-bodied, ample, and satiny, with a layered mid-palate underpinned by racy acids, concluding with a long, saline finish. Having parted ways with Domaine Billaud-Simon, Samuel Billaud established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis in 2009, and he has rapidly emerged as one of the town's best half-dozen producers, crafting wines characterized by textural seamlessness and unerring precision. Working with 4ha of organically farmed estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes, manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16° to 20°C in tank or inconspicuous wood, then maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premier cru and grand cru bottlings. The 2020 vintage is another fine success, though readers will have a hard time choosing between the last half-dozen or so vintages at this address, so completely has Billaud realized each year's potential."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
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