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| “The Odinstal estate is unusual in numerous respects, not least its location. These are the highest-elevation vines in the Pfalz Mittelhaardt and constitute their own Einzellage – Wachenheimer Odinstal – separated by only a narrow strip of woods from the Pechsteinkopf, a volcanic peak whose dramatic crater was greatly enlarged by some two centuries of use – until the 1980s – as a quarry for basaltic building and paving stones. The imposing home and cellar were built (and the first vineyards planted) in 1802 as a summer retreat by Johann Ludwig Wolf of the eponymous Weingut J.L. Wolf, in the gaming room of which Wolf allegedly lost the property at cards to another Wachenheim grower …. I finally made it to Weingut Odinstal in late summer 2017 and found their wines utterly fascinating and infectiously drinkable …. The oldest vines on which any of the wines draw were planted in the late 1970s, whereas there has been significant planting under the present owner, and blocks representing well-selected vine material clearly have their best vintages still ahead of them. A remarkable feature of the Odinstal vineyards is a block of vines that has not been pruned since 2008 (and another not since 2010). These have adapted to yield copious but distinctly loose clusters featuring tiny and, as tasting confirms, well-concentrated berries. Schumann reports that it requires the equivalent of 200 man-hours per hectare (80-plus per acre) to harvest them, on top of which roughly 15% of these minuscule fruits are hand-destemmed so that they can enter the ferment intact. The wines resulting from this unorthodox approach – like those of similarly anachronistic experiments by Abbatucci in Corsica and Meinklang in Burgenland – are quite distinctly delicious. Remarkable, too, chez Odinstal is that the property features three utterly distinct sorts of soil, based on fossiliferous red Triassic marl (Keuper), Permian Buntsandstein, and (naturally) basalt. The corresponding bottlings offer outstanding opportunities for contemplating the influence of these soils and comparing Riesling grown on all three ....
Named for the extinct volcanic crater (the Pechsteinkopf) adjacent to the Odinstal vineyards, [Vulkan 2018] represents an inaugural cuvée, raised in tank and fermented without any stems, from lots that originated in all three of the Odinstal geological formations ..."
David Schildknecht, Vinous |
| | | "... From a mixture of Odinstal soils, including sandstone, limestone and basalt. Vinified in stainless steel with 5% to 10% whole clusters, the wine offers a deep, complex and intense, pure, saline and elegant nose with ripe fruit aromas intermingled with oat flakes or muesli notes. Round and textured on the palate, this is a full-bodied, intense and elegant terroir Riesling with fine tannins and fine, saline acidity that carries the wine to a long, stimulating and complex finish."
93
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
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