"...An elegantly assertive wine, anchored by a deeply resonant chalkiness."
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| The Grand Cru Fins Bois is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay grown in chalk in Verzenay (Les Chaillots, Les Vignes Goisses) and Verzy (Les Bussets). It is a cuvée of Hugues's oldest vines, is vinified primarily in oak, includes a generous complement of reserve wines, is aged four years longer than the Premier Cru Extra Brut, and is itself bottled Extra Brut.
"Godmé vinifies his parcels separately and, depending on the vintage, the grapes and the terroir, may ferment in enameled stainless steel tanks or in oak barrels, or in a combination of both – even for a single cuvée. Malolactic fermentation, similarly, varies according to the grape and terroir, and most cuvées include some wine that has passed through malo as well as some wine that has not. The blends vary from year to year, with the cépage determined by the character of the base year. Godmé makes very generous use of reserve wines, and most cuvées include four and sometimes five different vintages. The dosage, similarly, varies according to the cuvée, with some wines having zero dosage and others reaching 7 or 8 gm/L. Hugues invariably uses MCR for his dosage. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration."
Veritas
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| | | "The Pinot for this cuvée is right on the chalk. It provides a profound mineral anchor while the Chardonnay goes all Tinkerbell around it, conjuring wildly with her wand discreet little comets of flavor. Then the intricate blend of reserve wines from no less than five vintages infuses everything with umami. Godmé’s Extra-Brut is baroque not in the sense that it is busy, but because the mineral anchor is so logical and the embellishments are so crystalline .... As to the finish, it is nothing short of contemplative: deeply saline, elegantly chalky, and marvelously fine and precise. Though an NV cuvée, this is, looks, and behaves like a prestige cuvée. There are few champagnes in our portfolio I drink more of, and every time I do, Hugues’ Grand Cru Extra Brut reels me in, quiets me, and floors me. As Terry Theise wonderfully put it 'Lots of wines, many of them good wines, let you taste the noise. But only the best let you taste the silence.' This is one of those."
Paul Wasserman, Becky Wasserman & Co.
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