Subject: The new vintage by Domaine Jamet, "the pinnacle of traditional Côte-Rôtie"

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"Jean-Paul Jamet began his career in the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie in 1976 at the age of 16, working with his father, Joseph, who bottled his first wine that year. Jean-Paul told us that he often found himself working alongside one of our former growers, Marius Gentaz, whose vines in Côte Brune bordered his own.

With the 2016 vintage, Jean-Paul celebrated his 40th year growing and vinifying Côte-Rôtie. His experience with his enviable collection of 17 (soon to be 19) lieux-dits spread across the best sites of the appellation has given him deep knowledge of how to unlock the greatest expression of Côte-Rôtie from its wide spectrum of terroirs.

This savoir-faire makes Jamet the modern-day master of the appellation."
KLWM
Domaine Jamet →
"A lot of people would give their right arms to possess even a fraction of this family's vineyards. Theirs is a regal cast of lieux-dits, spread across the appellation's finest central sites.

If you want to taste a wine that sums up the heartlands of Côte-Rôtie, the classic cuvée here should be it.

Jean-Paul is the front man .... Here is someone who can provide a sensible perspective on these ancient vineyards. 'For me, the exposure of the slopes is not the most important factor. We have ideal south-facing sites on the Côte Blonde, Lancement, and Leyat, for instance; we have southwest-facing sites on the Côte Brune, Fongeant, and Rochains, while Truchet is east. No, it's the nature of the soil that matters most for maturity. The difference between the schist and the granite is the key. The second factor is the altitude, meaning that there are some years when it's hard to get fully ripe crop high up. In 2002 the high spots were high in acidity while in 2001 they were the spots that brought the greatest freshness to the wine. They are more windy, so in effect you can get good balance in the wine if you have a spread.' As he says this, the wind buffets around his smart new cellar building high on the plateau of Champin ....
The sites that always form the backbone of their classic wine are from the core area above Ampuis: Chavaroche (1983 plantings), Fongeant (1991), Côte-Baudin (1993, 1997), Moutonnes (1978), plus La Landonne (1987) a little apart. They have just two granite sites, the Côte Blonde (1943) and Lancement (1989), while the rest are on the brown soil - schist of the middle to north. These are Côte Rozier (1943), Truchet (1968), Bonnivière (1968), Leyat (1968, 1999), Le Plomb (1973, 1993), Rochains (1988), Mornachon (1988), Tartaras (1991), and La Gerine (2000) ....

Vinification is a joint effort in their cellar, which was revamped in 2001, and is largely traditional. There is usually only 10-30% destemming, except in a dodgy year like 2002, when 60% of the crop needed it, and in drought-afflicted 2003, when all the crop was destemmed. Fermentation lasts 18-20 days in steel and includes cap punching on the destemmed vats and pumping over for the whole-bunch vats. Wood ageing lasts 22 months in a mix of 228- and 550-Liter casks. 20% of these are new, 80% are 3-10 years old. There has been no fining since 1997, and there is no filtration."
John Livingstone-Learmonth, The Wines of the Northern Rhône
Domaine Jamet
Côte-Rôtie 2021
"... This is a vintage about structure and minerality rather than concentration or fruit sweetness. I would be inclined to leave this for a substantial amount of time before broaching, around 2031, by which time it should show good complexity and terroir expression and may well be worthy of a higher score. All whole-bunch fermented, and matured mostly in old demi-muids."
95
Matt Walls, Decanter

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