Subject: The Old-Vine Masters of Gevrey-Chambertin: Domaine Joseph Roty

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Domaine Joseph Roty boasts one of the largest concentrations of old vines in Burgundy, averaging about 65 years. The Domaine is fanatical about old vines, and they have some of the oldest in France - living ambassadors of the affinity the Rotys so obviously feel for their land. Coupled with late picking, which further concentrates yields, and with fermentation below 30 degrees and a cuvaison of three weeks, the structure and complexity is consequently remarkable; uncompromising winemaking is required to achieve this. With a little age, these wines develop wonderful aromatics with characteristic Pinot Noir flavours of black cherry and stone fruit. The old-vine fruit contributes the length of flavour and great complexity. Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Cuvée Trѐs Vieilles Vignes is largely harvested from vines of over 120 years. One of the great Domaines of Gevrey.

Pierre-Jean has taken up the reins and seems to intent on following the family's somewhat idiosyncratic, uncompromising path. 'Nothing changes' Madame Roty told us on our last visit. These are not fashion-conscious wines: everything is destemmed, new oak is relatively high at around 50% on the village wines, 60-70% on the Lieux-Dits, and 100% on the Grands Crus. They are wines made to age ..."
Skurnik
DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE DE TRÈS VIEILLES VIGNES 2017
"The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes has turned out even better than I anticipated, unfurling in the glass with a magical bouquet of cassis, plums and blackberries mingled with dark chocolate, spices, sweet soil tones, licorice and black truffle. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's extraordinarily sumptuous and concentrated, framed by velvety tannins that caress the palate, and underpinned by lively acids, concluding with a long and expansive finish. Pierre-Jean Roty compares it to the 2012 and 2009 renditions, which readers who follow this Domaine will know is high praise indeed."
96
William Kelley, Wine Advocate

The Roty family’s Charmes-Chambertin from ancient vines has established a half-century track record as one of Burgundy’s monumental collectibles.

Full disclosure: I may have a genetic susceptibility to the wines of Domaine Joseph Roty, particularly their marvelous Charmes-Chambertin. In fact, I have more bottles of Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Cuvée de Très Vieilles Vignes in my cellar than any other Burgundy, and they rarely disappoint. My extensive vertical tasting of this bottling in December was also a celebration of a very private family — and the ghost in the room was the formidable personality of the late Joseph Roty ...”
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous

DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE DE LA BRUNELLE 2020
"The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle is quintessentially sensual and charming, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, licorice, sweet spices and petals, framed by a deft touch of toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it's lively and refined, with a vibrant, enveloping core of fruit and a mouthwatering finish."
91
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY
MARSANNAY LES OUZELOY 2020
"The 2020 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy is showing very well, bursting with notes of dark berries and plums mingled with licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with good concentration and powdery structuring tannins, it's built for the cellar."
91+
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR CUVÉE DE PRESSONNIER 2020
"Aromas of dark cherries, loamy soil, spices and grilled meats introduce the 2020 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pressonnier, a medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that's youthfully firm and structured, with a bright spine of acidity that will reward some patience."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate

‣ "25% new oak and from vines of 45+ years of age; until 1994 this portion of Pressonnier was classified as Gevrey Villages."

Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
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