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| | “Much of the finest Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny is being now made by Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves.” Jason Wilson, Vinous |
| | | | “Thierry Germain has led the Domaine des Roches Neuves to become one of the finest wine producers in the entire Loire Valley, and surely to become one of the top red wine Domaines in Saumur - although, the Chenin Blancs are also more than remarkable.
Based in Varrains, Germain cultivates almost 29 hectares of vines, of which 26 hectares are planted with Cabernet Franc according to biodynamic principles. His wines have a fascinating ripeness intertwined with beautifully floral flavors. Although the wines are smooth, intense, and concentrated on the palate, they are perfectly balanced, full of finesse and refreshing vitality. ‘This is thanks to the earlier ripening of the grapes, as well as the lower must weight and pH levels, which is an effect of our vineyard work,’ says Germain .... To study the Germain philosophy of terroir-driven and enjoyable wines, I recommend tasting three top Cabernet Francs side by side. The refined Franc de Pied is from sandy soils and was fermented for eight days with whole clusters and raised in 12-hectoliter vats (foudres). The chalky Clos de l'Echelier is from a very poor, chalky terroir, and was fermented for 20 days before the aging in oval-shaped, 12-hectoliter vats. The deep, intense and mineral Saumur-Champigny Les Mémoires is from a silex terroir, fermented for 18 days and then aged in a round 25-hecoliter vat."Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate |
| | | Ungrafted, High-Density Vines
‣ "It reveals itself to be a richly fruited, savory style that fills the mouth with a balloon of chalky silkiness. The limestone element really shows itself on the long finish grained texture and sinew. As you’d hope from Saumur-Champigny, there’s no sense of weight or heft. Detectable now but has the structure to develop over the coming two decades."
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Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
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| | | | A Partially Ungrafted Parcel Planted In 1904
‣ "The 2020 Les Mémoires is a round and elegant Cabernet Franc. It’s a not-trying wine that exudes a sense of calm and ease as it rolls around your mouth seamlessly. Maybe it’s the 100+-year old vines doing their thing. There’s no oak getting in the way, allowing the purity of fruit to shine. It remains true to its variety and place, while its light spice meets dark fruits. Forget the fruit flavors, this is all about refined texture and its fine, chalky, powdery veil of tannins lightly coating the palate. Long and textural, this is not a wine you’ll regret."
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Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous |
| | | “Thierry Germain might be a Bordelais by birth, but, having ended up in Saumur-Champigny ‘par hasard,’ he is now one of the appellation’s leading lights.
The wines from Domaine des Roches Neuves have a transparency, delicacy, and ease that you encounter too infrequently. Red wine represents the majority of production at this estate, which owns vineyards scattered around the appellation, but lightness of touch and purity of fruit are common threads no matter the soil type or orientation. Even in the ‘entry-level’ Saumur-Champigny, whose label changes color every year just to keep us confused, the hands-off approach is clear. You’re sure to be indoctrinated in the ways of biodynamics if you encounter the affable Germain, but whatever your thoughts on this method of farming, the results speak for themselves. Readers will find the wines on the market comparatively early. ‘A wine that is young should be good all its life – you shouldn’t have to wait five years; it’s like missing the first five years of child’s life.’”
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous |
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