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| "With his imposing frame and towering presence, Pierre-Yves Colin can sometimes seem built more for a rugby pitch than a cellar. When in conversation, he listens intently, his intense eyes never averting their gaze. When he speaks, it is with great purpose and determined passion; every word making it clear that you are in the presence of a true master of his craft.
In the 15 years since starting his own Domaine, the Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey name – or PYCM, as he is known – has become synonymous with excellence. Today he is one of the most revered vignerons in the world. |
| | | | Since his first vintage in 2004, he immediately caught the world’s attention with wines of unparalleled energy and verve. Even his Bourgogne Blanc put everyone on notice, leading one of the top wine writers in the world, Lettie Teague, to remark: |
| 'It's not often that a winemaker's genius can be detected in a bottle of basic Bourgogne. It would be like finding one of the world's greatest speeches written on the back of an envelope. And yet, when I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Blanc from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey almost a year ago, it was like discovering the vinous equivalent of the Gettysburg Address. The wine was so good—possessed of an elegance, complexity and finesse far beyond its humble provenance ... that I immediately bought six additional bottles.'
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| For anyone who is lucky enough to have tasted a bottle from PYCM, there is a profound tension between the fruit and minerality that makes every sip akin to watching a great gymnast nailing a difficult beam routine. No single element is out of balance, presenting the kind of white Burgundy we dream of, yet so rarely find.
So where does this magic come from? On the surface, his practices do not seem so revolutionary; he presses his grapes very slowly, racking directly into 350L barrels to allow fermentation to start naturally. He never stirs the lees and the wines see two winters in his gravity-fed, freezing cold cellar under Chassagne, before being bottled unfined an unfiltered. Yet there is an undeniably fantastical quality to the sublime balance found in the wines that reveals an essential truth about the mystery of great wines. There is no clear recipe that one could follow to achieve what Pierre-Yves has achieved, despite the many who try. The magic is in the small, everyday decisions that a vigneron makes based on a combination of instinct and experience. With PYCM, it all comes together to become so much more than the sum of his winemaking parts. To say that he is a great vigneron would be the same as saying Lionel Messi is good at kicking a ball. Definitely true, but it fails to capture the essence of the bolts of lightning found in each bottle of these wax-capped unicorns."
Skurnik |
| | "I do things the old-fashioned way, which always takes more time."
Pierre-Yves Colin |
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| | | | | | | "Caroline Morey is the eldest daughter of the famed Jean-Marc Morey. In 2014, after her father’s retirement, she took a portion of the family’s vineyards to start her own Domaine. Today she shares a winery in Chassagne-Montrachet with her husband, Pierre-Yves Colin .... The Morey family has been in Chassagne since the mid 16th century, and it was Albert Morey who first started Domaine bottling in 1950. His prized heirloom vineyards throughout Chassagne and Santenay passed down to his son Jean-Marc and now to Caroline. She shares a similar winemaking approach with her husband, using indigenous yeasts, fermenting and aging the wines in 350L barrels, and forgoing battonage for her whites. In just a few vintages, Caroline has taken the world by storm with wines of precision, purity, mineral intensity and an extraordinary clarity of terroir."
Skurnik |
| | | | | "Joseph Colin is the son of Marc Colin and the younger brother of Pierre-Yves. After Pierre-Yves left in 2003 to start his now-famous PYCM, Joseph took over Domaine Marc Colin with his two younger siblings, having worked with his father since 1993 at the age of 19. In 2017 Joseph followed in his older brother’s footsteps, by peeling 6+ hectares from the original family property to begin his own story. This process of bestowing the oldest children with some of the most beautiful vines in the world to make their own way in the wine world is a Burgundian tradition. In the case of the Colin family, the parcels they were given include some of the choicest nuggets of Chardonnay soil on the planet, with the mother lode centered in and around St. Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne. Having started working with his father full-time at such a young age, Joseph knows the rocks and vines in this white Burgundy mecca like few others, meticulously caring for each parcel like his own personal garden. He has a hands-off approach in the cellar, fermenting with indigenous yeast and aging all of the wines in 350L barrels on their fine lees until bottling. The wines are all top examples of this most sacred of Chardonnay terroirs, with an electricity and verve that is so sought yet so rarely found."
Skurnik |
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