Subject: "Revered By Those In The Know”

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"Where these Burgundies really stand out for me, however, is for their unusual mid-palate plenitude and alliance of elevated maturity with low pHs."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
"... Revered by those in the know ..."
Martine's Wines
“Regardless of their appellation, all the vines of the Domaine are treated in the same way – at the vines, in yields, during elevage, and with the amount of wood – Patrick [Essa] says that terroir that should determine the differences, not how the wine is made. The low-yield grapes are hand-picked, triaged at the vines, and then again at the Domaine. For the reds Patrick likes to keep some stems as ‘it’s more classic,’ but they have to be ripe and if they are not they will be discarded. Discussing the wines with Patrick, he emphasizes: ‘I’m looking for wines that are expressive though offer a little discretion - with concentration, crunchy fruit, purity, and just a hint of reduction. Acidity is important too. I’m aiming for the taste of the vineyard rather than the taste of the elevage.’ I find this interesting because the whites (not the reds) give me the impression of a distinct signature in the younger wines – fine as it is. It is a faint creamy note that tends (almost) lactic before becoming savoury and slightly floral with aeration. It’s a signature that reminds me in some ways of Ramonet or even a little of Coche-Dury. I ask Patrick about this and he agrees, saying ‘I know what you mean and it lasts about 2 years before Meursault takes over; in a way I think it’s a shame to lose it because I quite like it.’ I have to say that I do too. Quality here is exemplary …”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
BUISSON-CHARLES
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUVES 2020
“From a 50/50 blend of Les Millandes and La Riotte. Ripe aromas of poached plum, various dark berries and pungent earth leads to more energetic and more finely detailed if less powerful medium-weight flavors that also possess a seductive texture on the youthfully austere finale. Lovely.”
 90-93
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com

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