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| "Is this the world's best winemaker?" Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Decanter Magazine
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| | | "Founded by native Pamplonans Enrique Basarte and Elisa Ucar in the mid-2000s as a vehicle for preserving Navarra’s patrimony of old-vine Garnacha in the zone of San Martín de Unx, Domaine Lupier has been quietly building its reputation in Spain as a leading source of expressively floral, juicy, and succulent Garnacha — in a word, ‘Atlantic.'
This 17ha Domaine, the majority of whose vines date to 1903, has now truly met its match in Raúl Pérez, whose ongoing search for a prime estate source of Garnacha ended here last year with his acquisition of the property ....
Extending over a number of different parcels varying in altitude from about 400m above sea level to 750m over a basic substrate of clay and limestone, the estate boasts what are thought to be the oldest vines in the ground in the village of San Martín de Unx. While not certified, the 100% head-pruned and dry-farmed bush-vines are farmed in emphatically organic fashion, producing beautifully ripe and healthy but balanced and crunchy fruit. There are two cuvées produced — ‘El Terroir’, the delicious estate blend, and ‘La Dama’, a showstopping single-parcel bottling from the highest altitudes of the estate. Both wines are fermented in a combination of tank and open-top barrel with some stem inclusion, and they see elevage in a range of larger French barrels from 400 to 1500L, with about 10% of the cooperage new per year."
Skurnik |
| | "There are three kinds of winemaking genius.
First, the classicists: those who excel in applying what they have learned from their masters and reaching higher levels of refinement. They are behind the great, classic wines.
Then, the innovators, who discover or develop new winemaking approaches, master new technologies, or reveal unknown grape varieties, in ways that are easily replicable. We have them to thank for many new wine styles and new regions.
The third group are those rare geniuses who act upon intuition. One cannot classify their wines; they are simply inimitable, because those wines have somehow encrypted in their tasting profile the unique combination of their terroir’s message, along with the personality of their creator. Intuitive geniuses are transmitters of feelings and visions.
Raúl Pérez is the archetype of the intuitive winemaking genius."
Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Decanter Magazine
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| | 100% Garnacha (Grenache) from the Dama parcel planted in 1903 at 650m above sea level in San Martín de Unx; fermented spontaneously in tank and raised for 36 months in neutral 500L and 600L French oak
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| ‣ "No 2017 was produced, so after the 2016 I tasted a while ago, we jump to the 2018 La Dama, vinified by Enrique Basarte and Elisa Úcar and blended and bottled by Raúl Pérez, the new owner of the project. They always look for a more delicate expression of Garnacha from selected stonier plots of old head-pruned and dry-farmed vines in the village of San Martín de Unx that are worked organically and biodynamically but are not certified. The wine is stunning, elegant and aromatic, with depth, complexity and grip. It's incredibly young and expressive and doesn't show its age at all; it has a refined nose and is quite fruit-driven and floral, with very integrated oak (like never before), supple flavors and very fine tannins. It has good ripeness and contained alcohol (13.8%) and good freshness and acidity (with a pH of 3.46 and 6.3 grams of tartaric)."
97 Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate |
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