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| | "This estate merits a mention in any list of Bordeaux's finest under-the-radar producers .... The results of [Stéphane] Dief's exigent viticulture and thoughtful, precise, artisanal winemaking are consistently brilliant wines of real class and character, and they deserve to be far better known." William Kelley, Wine Advocate |
| | | | "Stéphane Dief, whose family worked for Mouton Rothschild in the 19th century, started Clos Manou in 1998, producing two barriques of wine from a 0.12-hectare parcel in Saint-Christoly-Médoc, some 15 kilometers to the north of Saint-Estèphe, ‘out where the buses don't run.’ Growing little by little over the years, he now owns 18.5 hectares of vineyards in morcellated parcels that encompass three essential terroirs: gravels (where Cabernet Sauvignon is planted), sand, and clay-limestone (where Merlot is planted).
In his acquisitions, Dief has always sought out high-density plantings, and when he replants, it's at 10,000 vines per hectare (and up to 13,500 vines per hectare for a parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon). Using massale selections from Bérillon, any missing vines are replaced, and the vineyards are cultivated under the rows, with mowed grass left between. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are employed. Shrugging off my compliments regarding their impeccable condition, Dief says that he considers his practices merely ‘normal viticulture’ — even if these are norms that few seldom obtain today, even among well-financed classified growths. Harvest is by hand, parcel by parcel, into small crates, with gentle, rather reductive vinification in more than 30 small vats, which is followed by vertical pressing and maturation that varies by variety, Cabernet Sauvignon seeing some new oak (from Tonnellerie Baron) and Merlot maturing in concrete. Today, as at so many addresses, extraction isn't pushed hard (fermentation temperatures are limited to a maximum of 26°C), and new oak's presence is discreet."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate |
| | | 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc
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| ‣ "From an 18-hectare estate planted at a density of around 10,000 vines per hectare, the 2019 Clos Manou is a serious wine. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, cigar wrapper, licorice and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with terrific concentration, lively acids and plenty of ripe, powdery tannin that will reward a bit of bottle age. It's closed with an Ardeaseal technical cork as used by Burgundy's Domaine Ponsot among others. This estate merits a mention in any list of Bordeaux's finest under-the-radar producers."
92+
William Kelley, Wine Advocate |
| ‣ "The 2019 Clos Manou has a ripe, extroverted bouquet of black cherries, mulberry, rose petal and slight confit aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannins, fleshy and generous. The smooth, spicy, voluminous finish is irresistible. Can I say 'yummy' in a professional note? Yummy."
92
Neal Martin, Vinous |
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