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| | | Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous on Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot 2016s
Pillot, who lost upwards of two-thirds of his Chardonnay in 2016, described the wines last year as “chiseled like the 2010s were at the beginning,” adding that they’re “not about largeness and shoulders.” Now that the wines are finished, he considers them to be more acid than the ‘17s, as the younger crop of wines possesses more enveloping gras. He also believes that their citrus zest acidity will hold the '16s for a long time. Pillot barely made any Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes or Vergers in 2016, but his top cuvées were impressive at the end of May.
Allen Meadows, Burgound on Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot 2016s
"Jean-Marc Pillot noted that 2016 was "indisputably complicated with one of the more difficult growing seasons in a long time. . . The lousy conditions lasted just to the 14th of July, where we then had a hail storm but thereafter just to the harvest, conditions were essentially perfect if perhaps just a bit too dry . . . We chose to begin picking on the 22nd of September with our whites and at least the fruit, both pinot and chardonnay, was spotless with excellent ripeness levels. Less positively were the yields and I would put our total losses at -70% as the only vineyard that escaped damage was in Puligny. I really like the style of the 2016s and . . . it's much better than I dared hope for."
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One of the most accomplished and seasoned winemakers in Chassagne-Montrachet is Jean-Marc Pillot. A true traditionalist of Burgundy, the 4th generation winemaker took over the family estate from his father Jean in 1991. While staying true to the methods of his father, he made subtle changes in modernizing the winery to create the best wines the Domaine has likely ever produced.
Jean-Marc works with primarily produces Whites, but also produces a handful of very serious Reds from Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay and Bourgogne. The Crown Jewels of his production are the Premier Crus from Chassagne (Baudines, Vergers, Chenevottes, Morgeot, Caillerets, Macherelles, etc.). The marks of his winemaking are freshness, precision, intense minerality and balance. With as challenging a year as 2016 was, Jean-Marc was able to produce truly stunning wines, although in minuscule quantities.
Today, we have the pleasure of offering you a wide variety of new arrivals from this exceptional producer. These include six wines from the current release vintage of 2016 and ten library wines from the 2014 and 2015 vintages. Buy these while you can, quantities are very limited and are guaranteed to run out.
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| Score: 92-94AM Price: $79.95
"Reduction presently dominates the nose. There is however first-rate intensity and freshness to the ultra-refined, racy and beautifully delineated flavors that possess an almost delicate texture on the focused, highly complex and gorgeously persistent finish. This excellent effort is textbook Baudines.” 92-94 Points Allen Meadows
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| "Pale, bright yellow. Incredibly sappy aromas of lemon, lime, white peach, orange zest and crushed stone, accented by a note of rhubarb. At once powerful, densely packed and refined, conveying outstanding inner-mouth energy and precision without any impression of weight. Not a monster of opulence; in fact, the dominant impression here is of penetration and thrust, with the citrus and mineral flavors showing lovely purity and floral lift and building inexorably on the long aftertaste . . . This is the first vintage that includes the young vines that Pillot replanted in 2003; the other half of the vines in this clos are 100 years old." 91-94 Points Stephen Tanzer
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| Score: 90-93AM Price: $79.95 "More restrained aromas features notes of petrol, anise, tea and citrus peel. In contrast to the racy flavors of the Macherelles here the dense flavors are super-rich thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also buffers the firm acid spine on the robust, indeed even slightly rustic finish that flashes excellent complexity. Good stuff and built-to-age yet a wine that should drink well young." 90-93 Points Allen Meadows
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| "(Pillot bottled his 2016s at the end of March, fining but not filtering them): Bright, pale yellow. Citrus peel, ginger and white pepper on the piquant nose. High-pitched and extremely youthful on the palate, with flavors of lemon, spices and salty minerality conveying an impression of strong energy. Not a fleshy wine but boasts terrific inner-mouth lift. The subtly rising finish displays excellent definition and grip. This tactile, bright wine will need at least a few years in bottle to expand. Pillot says this wine hasn't really budged yet but I find it much more classic than a barrel sample I tried a year ago.” 92 Points Stephen Tanzer
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| "There is a vaguely exotic quality to the very fresh aromas of white peach, citrus zest, floral and soft spice wisps. There is equally good freshness to the markedly racy medium-bodied flavors that display a subtle touch of minerality as well as a hint of salinity that adds lift to the almost painfully intense, well-balanced, complex and persistent finish. This is presently linear and compact but possesses excellent potential.” 91-93 Points Allen Meadows
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| "Pale yellow. Complex, precise aromas of white peach, citrus fruits, flowers and minerals. Highly concentrated, seamless and suave, with its lemon, lime and white peach flavors complicated by saline minerality. In a distinctly feminine style, displaying lovely inner-mouth perfume and early balance and finishing with superb rising length. Not an opulent style but utterly edge-free. This wine is deceptively open now owing to its balance but it would be a shame not to give it at least a couple years in the cellar." 93 Points Stephen Tanzer
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| Library Wines available from Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot:
Score: 89-92AM Price: $63.95 (5 available)
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