Subject: From 120-Yr-Old Prephylloxera Vines, Masseria Del Pino's Tête De Cuvée: "If You’re Looking For Under-The-Radar, Traditional Winemaking From Etna, Then You Just Found It"

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"It is a profound rosso, richly flavored with black cherry, balsamic spices, and a smokiness that recalls the fresh-laid-tar suggestions often found in young Barolo.

Its intensely gripping, yet silty-fine tannin is a trademark of wines from Contrada Pino."
Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
MASSERIA DEL PINO →
"While much has changed on the volcano over the last 2 decades, pockets remain where time seems to stand still.

Driving down the dusty road to Masseria del Pino, Cesare Fulvio and Federica Turillo’s little farm upslope from Randazzo, it is hard to tell which century we are living in. This is Etna in all its pastoral serenity, with only the sights, scents, and sounds of the mountain to stimulate the senses. This simple, peaceful lifestyle is precisely what the couple envisioned when they settled here in 2005. Catania natives, they left their jobs — Cesare as a commercial air pilot, Federica as an archery instructor — to cultivate the 2 hectares of terraced vineyards at Contrada Pino, elevation 800 meters [~2,600ft]. They renovated the property’s ancient palmento, a traditional farmhouse featuring an old press and large fermentation vats made of lava stone, and began to work the 120-year-old vines, plus some olive trees ..."
Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
"Fulvio founded the estate in 2005 when he bought 2 hectares in the high-quality area of Randazzo on Mt. Etna. In 2007, he and his significant other, Federica Turillo, moved in and have since lived on the winery grounds. They make mainly red wine from vines some of which are up to 120 years old and that are organically farmed; they have produced some white wine in the past; production volumes are small (roughly 3,000 bottles a year).

The name of this wine, which translates in English to ‘the nine brothers,’ is an homage to the owner’s grandfather and his eight brothers who loved wine. The wines I’ve tried have certainly impressed: given that Turillo was a former archery instructor, you can’t be blamed for thinking that Fulvio and Turillo have hit the bullseye."
Ian d'Agata, Vinous
MASSERIA DEL PINO
ETNA ROSSO I NOVE FRATELLI 2019
90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio; 120-yr-old pre-phylloxera vines planted in volcanic soils; indigenous fermentation, regular pigeage; aged in large (500L), old oak for 15 months
"The 2019 vino rosso I Nove Fratelli takes a while to blossom, starting out dusty and coy with hints of dried roses and plum. Exotic savory spices come forward with time in the glass, along with notes of strawberry and smoke. In the mouth, it’s soft and fleshy at first, offset by a concentrated mass of tart wild berries and salty minerals under an air of inner florals. Tannins slowly mount, creating a youthfully dry impression through the finale, as sweet herbal notes, tobacco and echoes of ripe raspberries linger long. There’s simply so much going on here, yet the 2019 will require some time to come fully into focus. I Nove Fratelli is a blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio, from 120-year-old pre-phylloxera vines, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in 500-liter oak barrels.

If you’re looking for under-the-radar, traditional winemaking from Etna, then you just found it."
93+
Eric Guido, Vinous
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