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| | "After tasting Christian [Rouchier]’s 2015 Saint-Joseph La Chave two years ago (one of my wines of the year), I decided I had to track him down.
He’s based in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, a commune within Saint-Joseph that’s renowned for its steep granite vineyards. It’s secreted in the valley of the Doux, a tributary of the Rhône, just over the river from the hill of Hermitage. We took a drive to his Chave vineyard (nothing to do with the Hermitage Domaine of the same name), and walked the rows, with cow bells, roosters, and barking dogs sounding in the distance. It was planted in 1958, but the vines are still surprisingly skinny. This vineyard isn’t on the slope, but towards the top of the hill. It’s cooler here; he says his father’s wines struggled to hit 10% alcohol. His wines, however, naturally reach between 12% and 13% today. ‘With global warming it’s better to be higher up now,’ he says ....
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| | | Christian doesn’t make a lot of wine and he sells most of it locally. Luckily for us, he also exports a small amount. He has nothing to prove and doesn’t need to impress. You can taste it in the wine; no excess extraction, pushed ripeness, or overt oak.
Like many of the best winemakers, Christian somehow removes himself from the wine, leaving something that tastes entirely of its place."
Matt Walls, Decanter Magazine |
| | | A cuvée parcellaire of 100% Syrah; La Chave is a 1-hectare lieu-dit planted with vines dating to 1958; with western exposition, La Chave is planted in granitic gneiss; 2 weeks of whole-cluster, indigenous fermentation in concrete with both pigeage and remontage; aged for 16-18 months in neutral (5-9-year-old) 228L oak barrels; bottle unfiltered |
| ‣ "Already revealing spice-driven complexity, including white pepper, dried meat, garrigue, juniper, menthol, camphor, and eucalyptus oil. The palate saturates - juicy and sinewy, the taut tannin and lively acidity are supported by a furious tactile minerality that presents like a heavy current flowing across the palate. Grippingly tight, but not overly concentrated; very young, promising an elegant palate paired with wild spice. Intensely peppery terroir notes already emerge in the finish." |
| ‣ "A gorgeous, rose-scented expression of Saint-Joseph .... Surprisingly Côte-Rôtie-like." 94
Matt Walls, Decanter Magazine |
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