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| | | Domaine A. et P. de Villaine 2017's: Burgundy Royalty at a Bargain
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All you have to see is the surname, de Villaine. When this family is involved in the production of any wine, it is wise to purchase them before they are gone. Aubert de Villaine, the co-owner and co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has called the village of Bouzeron his home since the late 1970’s. Aubert and his wife Pamela, took over a rundown Domaine and turned it into one of the shining stars in the Côte Chalonnaise. In effort to improve the health of the soil and quality of the fruit, the Domaine started using organic practices and in 1986 Domaine de Villaine was certified organic by Qualicé-France. They have continued this effort to improve the health and quality by practicing many Biodynamic methodologies and have become a strong advocate for them in the region.
Pierre de Benoist, Aubert’s nephew is the director and winemaker of the de Villaine estate. By and large, the treatment of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vineyards and wines and the Domaine de Villaine vineyards and wines are essentially the same. The main difference between the two Domaines would be the amount of the new oak used in Élevage, which is rarely more than 25% for the de Villaine wines and most of the DRC wines are aged in 100% new oak barrels.
The largest production wine of Domaine de Villaine is the Bouzeron, produced from Aligoté Doré (which is the superior clone of Aligoté) from vines of varying age up to 90 years old. Bouzeron A.O.C. largely owes its existence due to the advocacy and support of Aubert de Villaine. These wines are marked with vibrant acid, fresh citrus and pretty floral aromas. They can gain complexity with age, but are quite delicious when young as well.
The other two whites produced from Chardonnay are the Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous Aimé and the Rully Les Saint-Jacques. The Les Clous Aimé has a substantial minerality due to the Limestone-based vineyard sites. It can be enjoyed in its youth with the minerality as its primary character, but will build complexity and benefit from a few years of age. The Rully Les Saint-Jacques is a bit more driven by fresh fruits and subtle floral aromas. It can be enjoyed in its youth, but a few years in the cellar will reward the patient.
The three reds we are offering are the Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine and Mercurey Les Montots. The La Fortune is the most accessible early on as the entry-level Rouge of this Domaine. It is very fresh and elegant with vibrant acidity. The La Digoine comes from two sites at the foot of slopes just outside the village of Mercurey. This is very enjoyable young with its fleshy fruit and silky tannins, but it really blossoms after decanting for a couple hours. The most age-worthy of the offerings is the Mercurey Les Montots. Clay, Limestone and Iron are the base of the soil in this vineyard and the minerality composition is clearly reflected in the wine. Giving these three wines a few years in the cellar will reward with substantial development of complexity aromas and flavors.
If you can't afford Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, or can and want some everyday drinkers, these wines are an exceptional opportunity to experience high-quality Burgundy from essentially the Royal family of the region. These wines are heavily allocated and are very limited so get them while you can.
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| "Our Bouzeron comes from vines situated on the best slopes of the appellations. We have planted to Bouzeron the golden Aligoté doré grape, which gives lowers yield and more aromatic wines than its cousin, the Aligoté Vert. True to its varietal nature, our Bouzeron is a lively, fruity wine, but it also has a finesse and roundness that spring from the essential nature of the terroir. These qualities lend it great versatility. To best appreciate the freshness and fruit, our Bouzeron would be drunk young, within two or three years. To allow the wine to fully develop fullness and "fatness", age it for up to ten years. . ." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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"Les Clous Aimé comes from several parcels located on a south-facing slope of Bouzeron's valley, sheltered from summer's north wind during ripening. Our vineyard here is planted with selections of Chardonnay grapes that we have chosen for moderate yields. Les Clous Aimé is a vin de garde- it's meant to be aged. It is made from the fruit of old vines on a predominantly limestone terroir, and in its youth displays a pure mineral character. Patience, however, is urged: only after five to seven years does this wine reveal the full scope of its finesse and complexity of aromas." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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| "Our vineyard in the "Les Saint-Jacques" parcel is located at the foot of an east-facing slope, just below the Clos Saint-Jacques- one of the Rully's most famous premiers crus. Planted in 1990, this vineyard is the legacy of an old Côte d'Or vineyard-it is made up of moderate-yield Chardonnay selections. The charm of our Rully Les Saint-Jacques lies in its finesse and subtlety of aroma rather than its power. . ." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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"Rarely have we had the opportunity to pick grapes from Fortune as beautiful, wonderful, sugar-laden. Fruity, greedy and tender at the same time, you can drink it now or wait two or three years to enjoy all the freshness and grain." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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"At first sight, the colour is sustained, intense red. Even if the nose is still slightly shy, it suggests a great wine ; this impression is confirmed by the complexity on the palate. A wine fleshy, rich, deep, full of ripe and silky tannins." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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The 2016 Mercurey Les Montots has a perfumed bouquet with cranberry and raspberry fruit, just a hint of seaweed coming through with time. The palate displays fine density, intense yet refined with good weight and precision on the finish with a discrete spiciness that prolongs its length. This is a wonderful Mercurey." 91 Neal Martin, Vinous
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| It expresses a very beautiful maturity despite a year not so bright. The note and palate are correlated to the nature of the soil in Mercurey Les Montots: Clay-limestone with iron presence. This gives to the wine a racy, chiseled nose with chalky notes of cooked red fruits. On the palate, the wine is astonishingly supple and silky on first approach whilst the tannins are more presents on the finish lengthening the tasting and leave a powerful impression. A great wine with aging potential." Producer Notes, Domaine de Villaine
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