Subject: Bordeaux Futures: 2022 En Primeur / Featuring Margaux, Canon, Mouton, Pavie, Ducru Beaucaillou, and More

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"The 2022s are some of the most memorable young wines I have ever tasted in Bordeaux. The best 2022s are magnificent, viscerally thrilling wines that show what is possible with thoughtful approaches to viticulture and winemaking. A number of properties at all levels made their best wines ever.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, May 2023
"Progressive agronomy combined with precisely chosen harvest dates and judicious extraction delivered some of the most exciting red Bordeaux produced in the last two decades."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate, Apr 2023
"The crème de la crème are blessed with kaleidoscopic aromatics, intense fruit, finely-sculpted tannins, structure, elegance and length. Above all, contrary to what the growing season implied, they are suffused with freshness. They immediately tempt you back to the glass for another sip. The highest performers will dazzle."
Neal Martin, Vinous.com, May 2023
"For me, personally, it sets a new benchmark for Bordeaux after my first reference vintage for the region from barrel: 1982.”
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, Apr 2023
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
MARGAUX 2022
“Stunning in its density and construction, with a gorgeous balance that starts with red rose aromatics and slides into creamy and intense raspberry, damson, loganberry and cassis fruits. The intense structure of the vintage is on display, here with velvety tannins giving shape and contrast by a push and pull of slate, graphite, cloves, turmeric, cardamom and white pepper. Bitter dark chocolate ending, a character of the year but here delivered with a blast of cooling mint leaf. Philippe Bascaules director, harvest September 8 to 27, 25hl/h yield. 100% new oak, to be monitored carefully over ageing because this is the first time they have seen this level of alcohol in the Cabernet Sauvignon. 40% of the crop is into this 1st wine, one of the highest in years. Harvest September 8 to 27. They are slowly changing the row orientation in the vineyard at Margaux, begun last year but a 50-year project, and introducing more Cabernet Franc through field grafting (wanting to get up to maybe 15% of plantings, currently 5%).”
98-100
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com
“The bushel of red and black fruits initially get your attention before discovering all the violets, white flowers, cedar, and cigar box aromas in the perfume. On the palate, the wine is silky, sensuous, rich, and almost viscous. The fruit comes in layers, and does not stop building in intensity. The wine is poised between weight and lift, with an energetic finish delivering a powerful wall of cashmere-textured, red and black fruits that hold your focus for at least 60 seconds .... I love it. The wine blends 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. All the Petit Verdot was placed into Pavillon Rouge. 14.6% ABV, is the highest ABV in the history of the estate. 3.61 pH. Yields were barely 25 hectoliters per hectare. The Grand Vin was produced using only 40% of the harvest. Picking took place September 8 - September 28, making this one of the earliest starts to a vintage in the history of the estate.”
98-100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
This is the second time - after the 2005 - that I rate this wine at such a high niveau en primeur. The color is the blackest ever, and that's not nothing; this vineyard has never sought performance unto this point. The nose is deep, with nuances of blackberry jelly and black fruit. Ultra precise at the front of the palate, then ultra silky and in relief across the midpalate, the wine continues to evolve and ascend. Deep and powerful (à la 2005), with more black fruit than ever (even 2009), that legendary 'fondant' that distinguishes this wine returns, unexpectedly, in the last third of the palate. Here, this vineyard locates its sweetness, its nuance, and the mysteries of its unique identity. The urge to swallow becomes irresistible. It's shocking. Blend: 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.
100
Jean-Marc Quarin, Quarin.com
CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD
PAUILLAC 2022
"Moving to the flagship, the 2022 Château Mouton Rothschild is a massive, full-bodied, incredibly powerful 2022 that takes no prisoners with its ripe black and blue fruits, chocolate, graphite, and smoked tobacco-driven aromas and flavors. Deep, unctuous, and concentrated, with velvety tannins, this legendary Mouton is based on 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot that's still resting in new barrel. It will unquestionably play with the top wines in the vintage. Harvest here began the 1st of September and finished on the 26th, and the final wine hit 14% natural alcohol, with a pH of 3.89 and an IPT of 76."
98-100
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
“Dark in color, and equally dark in fruit, this is a flamboyant, ostentatious, opulent, velvet-textured Mouton that is on the exotic side. Perhaps, this is a modern version of the 1982? The wine exudes its blackberry, boysenberry, chocolate, Asian spice, tobacco leaf, licorice, smoke, and cigar wrapper notes in the perfume. On the palate, the wine is incredibly dense. There is so much fruit, you wonder if it would be better eating this with a spoon, before taking another sip? The finish is rich, intense, velvety, long, and close to seamless, holding court for over 50 seconds. I love the touch of spice that shines before the wine fades from your palate. The wine blends 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot. 14% ABV, 3.89 pH. The harvest took place September 1 - September 26. Yields were 32 hectoliters per hectare. Only 49% of the harvest was used to produce the Grand Vin."
98-100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
"A brilliant wine that likely sits somewhere between the 2019 and 2020 in quality, the 2022 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of minty cassis, cigar wrapper, violets and subtle hints of loamy soil, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit and a fleshy, elegantly muscular profile. Broad-shouldered and seamless, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. This year the grand vin represents some 49% of the estate's production."
96-99
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
CHÂTEAU PAVIE
SAINT-ÉMILION 2022
"The 2022 Pavie is a blend of 52% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon with a pH of 3.67. Yields were 31 hl/ha. Deep garnet-purple in color, it erupts from the glass with powerful notes of juicy blackberries, black currant pastilles, and wild blueberries, followed by classic hints of violets, licorice, red loam, wood smoke, and crushed rocks. The full-bodied palate delivers fantastic tension between the intense, muscular black fruit flavors and a lively backbone, framed by beautifully ripe, rounded tannins, finishing long and fragrant. Superb."
97-99+
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, TheWineIndependent.com
"Released in a special bottle to celebrate the 25th harvest of Gerard Perse, the 2022 Château Pavie checks in as 52% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is in line with recent vintages, although one important factor is that both Pavie Decesse and Bellevue Mondot will no longer be produced and will are now incorporated into the Château Pavie. Given the quality of those two releases, I don't see that affecting the quality of the Grand Vin. The 2022 sports a deep, saturated purple hue as well as a gorgeous bouquet of ripe cassis, blackcurrants, espresso roast, violets, and chalky minerality. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it has a layered, opulent mouthfeel, velvety tannins, integrated oak, and a great finish. This is another heavenly Pavie that's going to shine with just 5-7 years of bottle age and evolve for 30-40 years or more."
96-98+
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
CHÂTEAU CANON
SAINT-ÉMILION 2022
"From an estate that is delivering its greatest run of vintages since the superb Post War series that preceded the frosts of 1956, the 2022 Canon is a magical wine that will be worth every effort to track down. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, wild plums and cherries mingled with hints of bay leaf, spices and violets, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with huge levels of concentration, vibrant acids and beautifully refined tannins. Concluding with a long, saline finish, this pure, perfumed and ineffably complete Canon is built for the ages, even if its structural polish is such that it will be approachable at a surprisingly early age."
99-100
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
"Dark in color, the wine kicks open the door with its floral bouquet. From there, you find in the perfume, crushed stone, red fruits, licorice, spice, and wild cherries. On the palate, the wine is perfectly balanced between elegance and finesse on one side, and silky, fresh, sexiness and sensuality on the other side. The fruit shows a remarkable sense of purity. There are no hard edges. The finish is seamless. This is the best vintage since 2015. And in time, it could even be better."
98-100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
"From the outset, Canon embodies the serenity for which we know it. The wine displays this with confidence and with delicacy, but it does not fail to underline its extraordinary complexity. A multitude of elements titillate the olfactory nerve, whether spicy, fruity, or mineral. There are nuances of garrigue, tea leaves, black fruit, and peppermint, among others. Like the bouquet, the palate emerges with a notion of quiet strength and of serenity. Everything fits - each element in its place. The power, admirably channeled, goes hand in hand with the tension of the acid structure. The wine thus combines density and salinity while a slight austerity supports the aromatic expression of the finish. A wine at an exceptional level - close to perfection - and displayed in a majestic and yet humble manner."
98-100
Yves Beck, YvesBeck.Wine
CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU
SAINT-JULIEN 2022
"Inky dark in color, the wine exudes blackberries, smoke, currants, nutmeg, flowers, Cuban cigar wrapper, black cherries, smoke, and spice in the nose. On the palate, the wine is dense, and intense, yet light on its feet with seemingly, endless waves of deep, black and red, spicy fruits. There is symmetry, balance, and freshness on the palate. The tannins are present, silky, and refined. The wine is silky, supple, creamy, and seamless in the finish, which moves from black fruits, to red fruits and back to black fruits with spice, and accents of mint and a touch of citrus at the very end of the finish, which lingers for at least 60 seconds. Ducru Beaucaillou has been on an unstoppable roll since 2009."
98-100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
"The 2022 Ducru-Beaucaillou is made from 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot with a yield of 29 hl/ha, and represents 25% of the year's production. Deep garnet-purple in color, it soars out of the glass with graceful, energetic notes of crushed blackcurrants, redcurrant preserves, wild blueberries, and dark chocolate, followed by touches of violets, clove oil, cumin seed, and cast-iron pan. The medium to full-bodied palate is built like a skyscraper, delivering very firm, super-ripe, grainy tannins and seamless freshness to support the densely laden, vibrant black fruits, finishing very long with a spectacular display of mineral and floral fireworks."
97-99
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, TheWineIndependent.com
CHÂTEAU GRUAUD-LAROSE
SAINT-JULIEN 2022
"Another excellently consistent wine from Gruaud in 2022 that gives terroir typicality with crystalline purity and such overall charm. Smooth and supple, silky but firm, generous but serious. Gorgeous acidity keeps the palate lifted and fresh while the concentrated fruit and quite present tannins give the structure and frame. I love the detail and purity, powerful and strong but refined. Direct with energy and juicy, vibrant acidity. Mineral, graphite and liquorice aspects grip the palate and linger on the finish with soft spices. Has a very moreish quality with approachability but the racy core and intense backbone suggests long ageing potential. 3.8pH. 3.45g/l total acidity. 40% production. 13% press wine (only Cabernet Sauvignon)."
97
Georgie Hindle, Decanter Magazine
"The 2022 Gruaud Larose was picked from 7 to 24 September and includes a little more pressed wine this year: 13.5% exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon due to the quality. This latest vintage matured for a planned 18 months in 95% new oak. Significantly, this is the first year under organic certification (notice two storks on the label signifying this. Maybe they are carrying a little Gruaud baby?) At 13.64% alcohol, this is less than many other properties for those seeking slower intoxication. It has an impressive bouquet with pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, black truffle and sous-bois scents. I am impressed by its delineation and focus; frankly, these are the nicest aromatics I've encountered for a while at this address. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. I cannot remember a Gruaud at this nascent stage that exhibits this level of energy and tension deriving from the Cabernet Sauvignon extracted at the beginning of vinification. There's much more precision here. Mineral-driven toward the finish, this easily surpasses vintages made at the estate over the last decade and more. Perhaps like the legendary Gruauds of old (1982, 1961, 1928, even 1870)? Gruaud reborn."
95-97
Neal Martin, Vinous.com
CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN ROUGE 2022
"Inky dark in color, the wine requests a bit of effort before jumping into its nose of spice, cigar wrapper, blackberries, black currants, flowers, wet earth, and smoke. On your palate, the purity in the fruit, elegance, and lift is there. But what stands out is the width in your mouth as the wine caresses every part of your palate with its silky textures, and richness. The finish seals the deal as the wine has real staying power, staying with you for over 50 seconds."
98-100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
"Moving to the Grand Vin, the 2022 Château Smith Haut Lafitte checks in as 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot. This ripe, powerful, concentrated wine reminds me of the 2010 with its structure, concentrated mid-palate, and just sheer density and regal, full-bodied style on the palate. Despite its size, it stays balanced, has a beautiful perfume of sweet black fruits, graphite, scorched earth, and spring flowers, building tannins, and a great, great finish."
96-98
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN BLANC 2022
"This zooms over the palate from the minute you taste it with energetic acidity, grapefruit, pear, lemon and white peach character. Dried, candied lemon. Crushed stone, too. Medium-bodied with polish and class. 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon and 5% sauvignon gris."
97-98
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
"The flagship 2022 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is a normal blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% each of Sauvignon Gris and Sémillon. Aged in 55% new French oak, it shines in the vintage and brings plenty of classic richness and depth while at the same time staying pure, clean, and balanced. Honeyed lemon, orange blossom, white flowers, and crushed stone all define the aromatics, and it has a beautiful mouthfeel that certainly brings the richness and depth of the vintage. This is another gem of a white from this incredible château."
95-97
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
MARGAUX PAVILLON ROUGE DU CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2022
"You could easily mistake the 2022 Pavillon Rouge De Margaux for the Grand Vin here, and truth be told, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this actually evolve better than some of the Grand Vins from just over 10-15 years ago. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot (the second wine got all the Petit Verdot in 2022), it offers a deep, medium to full-bodied, seamless profile as well as solid framboise, darker raspberry, currants, sandalwood, and spice aromatics, silky tannins, and outstanding length. The purity and precision paired with this level of texture and richness far exceeds the vast majority of second wines out there."
94-96
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
"The 2022 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux is made from 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs quite a lot of swirling to bring out notes of blackcurrant pastilles, Morello cherries, and preserved plums, followed by hints of dusty soil, cumin seed, and garrigue. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers commendable grace and backbone, with firm grainy tannins and well-knit freshness supporting the muscular black fruits, finishing with a fragrant lift."
93-95+
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, TheWineIndependent.com
CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU
SAINT-JULIEN LA CROIX DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU 2022
"The 2022 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou contains a lot more Merlot this year as they were compensating for the lack of Cabernet Sauvignon, this Deuxième Vin raised in 80% new oak. It has a delineated bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit. The briary and smoky aromas feel more understated compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and seamlessly integrated oak that lends a silky texture. Very harmonious with an insistent grip (the IPT is 93), it lacquers the mouth long after it has departed. That Pauillac tincture is displayed and defines its precise finish. Excellent, but be warned that the oak will require several years to assimilate fully. Not so far behind the Grand Vin because of the growing season."
93-95
Neal Martin, Vinous
"The second wine of this great château, the 2022 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou is based on two-thirds Merlot with the balance mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, raised in 80% new French oak. Hitting 14% natural alcohol, its vivid purple hue is followed by stunning aromatics of cassis, blueberries, tobacco, graphite, and chalky minerality. Full-bodied on the palate, it brings plenty of concentration and structure yet is balanced and has a great mid-palate and outstanding length. If there was a ranking for the top second wines in Bordeaux, this would be in the top handful of releases."
93-95
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
BORDEAUX 2022 EN PRIMEUR:
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