Subject: Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: Châteaux Ausone (98-100), Ducru Beaucaillou (96-97), d'Issan (96-97), Cos d'Estournel (98-99), Pape Clément (97-98), & Malescot Saint-Exupéry (96-97)

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"With 2023, we returned to Bordeaux."
Alexandre Thienpont of Le Pin & Vieux Château Certan
▪ "Generally, the 2023s are relatively more tannic than we’ve become accustomed to, more linear and vertical, though endowed with greater fruit concentration than the 2021s. That appeals to my predilection. The best wines embrace these traits while maintaining sufficient fruit and grip, occasionally harking back to the kind of barrel samples encountered in the early days of my career, and I mean that in a good sense. One virtue that underlies the best wines is a brightness or what the French term éclat. It’s a kind of nascent energy that, in my experience, augurs a sample that will evolve into a great wine. This brightness derives from the fruit, acidity, fineness of tannins, and the more intangible concept of their personality, a combination of all .... The pinnacles of 2023 possess all these factors."
Neal Martin, Vinous

▪ "The young wines, tasted from cask, reflect [a] paradox, possessing — at their best — the depth, density, and ripe tannin of a sunny vintage but also the vibrant, expressive aromas and flavors of a more traditionally 'Atlantic' season. The best 2023s are just as exciting as the best 2022s ... [and] the 2023s may be released at prices as interesting as any we have seen since 2019."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate

▪ "So far, I have tasted more than 900 barrel samples of 2023 Bordeaux with my team over the last 10 days in the region, and the best reds show balance and freshness with deep center palates of ripe fruit and a complement of polished tannins. In many ways, I like them better than many of the highly touted 2022s because they are so Bordeaux in their nature with their tensioned mouthfeels and energetic finishes."
James Suckling

Château Ausone
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2023
 "A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot, the 2023 Ausone has a pH of 3.63 and a deep garnet-purple color. It is very mute and reticent to show its personality to start, needing a lot of shaking and pleading to coax out a series of intense scents: fresh blackberries, violets, licorice, pencil shavings, and tar, leading to an undercurrent of Sichuan pepper and fertile loam. The medium-bodied palate has wonderful tension and is incredibly taut and tight-knit, offering glimpses at layers of mineral and floral accented fresh blackberry flavors. It is textured by incredibly ripe, fine-grained tannins, delivering a very long finish, laced with mineral sparkles."
98-100
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent

 "I don't think I have tasted an Ausone like this. The purity of fruit and fluidity is so primary, like perfectly picked grapes with their juice. Then there is citrus freshness. It's muscular, with toned tannins that caress the palate and give a seamless finish. This really could push the boundaries for the character of Ausone, in the way of finesse with structure. Watch it. 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot."
98-99
James Suckling

Château AusonSaint-Émilion Grand Cru 2023
$570 / 0.75L → Add To Your Collection
 
Château Cos d'Estournel
Saint-Estèphe 2023
 "The finesse is pretty phenomenal here, with such complexity of fruit and vivid, bright flowers. Lavender and rose. Seductive. Ever-so long and precise. Lead pencil and graphite. Reminiscent of old, great Cos, such as the 1955 or 1982, but with so much more form and modernity. A renaissance of Cos. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot."
98-99
James Suckling

Château Cos d'Estournel Saint-Estèphe 2023
 
Château Cos d'Estournel
Saint-Estèphe Pagodes de Cos 2023
 "The polished and creamy texture here is extremely attractive, with blueberry, blackcurrant and crushed-stone aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied with linear tannins, showing polish and finesse. Creamy mouth-feel. Second wine of Cos. 12.9% alcohol. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot."
93-94
James Suckling

Château Cos d'Estournel Saint-Estèphe Pagodes de Cos 2023
 
Château Cos d'Estournel
Bordeaux Blanc 2023
 "This shows real precision and sophistication. Tight and dense palate that is concentrated but not heavy, with intensity and minerality. Sea salt and white pepper at the end. This is really at the top level of dry white Bordeaux now. 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon."
97-98
James Suckling

Château Cos d'Estournel Bordeaux Blanc 2023
 
Château Ducru Beaucaillou
Saint-Julien 2023
 "Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Smells fragrant and lifted, a combination of sweet and ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, but rich too, there’s depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture - grippy and filling no doubt, it coats the mouth with a crushed velvet texture, you feel the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally it’s not too lean, not strict at all, where many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let up. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Well crafted."
97
Georgie Hindle, Decanter Magazine

 "Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline mouthwatering finish."
96
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

Château Ducru Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2023
 
Château d'Issan
Margaux 2023
 "The purity of the fruit is really wonderful here, with blackcurrants, orange peel and raspberries. Aromatic. Full body, chewy tannins and a juicy finish. But it remains linear and vivid. The quality of the tannins and the powdery texture are really alluring. Silky. And so precise. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot. 13.83% ABV. 3.66 pH."
96-97
James Suckling
 "First time not to have Malbec in the main d'Issan wine since the purchase of the neighbouring estate Pontac Lynch in 2020. 50% new oak, 32hl/h yield. Fine tannins, well balanced, inky and powerful but with oyster shell salinity. Chalky tanins with touch of En Primeur austerity, well-constructed, full of cocoa bean, cassis, liqourice root, classical balance."
95
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux
Château d'Issan Margaux 2023
 
Château Pape Clément
Pessac-Léognan 2023
 "This is really classy with length and polish that shine brightly. Also, you see blackberry, bark, currant and mushroom character. Full-bodied with wonderfully polished tannins and a seamless finish."
96-97
James Suckling

Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2023
 
Château Pape Clément
Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2023
 "Dense and tight with a solid core of sliced Meyer lemon, lime and green apple. It’s full and very compact with a phenolic texture that runs the length of the wine. Slightly chewy, yet, it’s long and persistent with a mineral and bitter citrus undertone at the end."
96-97
James Suckling

Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2023
 
Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry
Margaux 2023
 "This has a very deep and beautiful palate with cherries, chocolate, hazelnut and orange peel. Pretty blackcurrants and blue berries, too. Medium body. The finish has gorgeous al-dente fruit at the end and is always subtle. Open tannins."
96-97
James Suckling

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2023
Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
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