Subject: Benchmark Bordeaux, 2014-2020

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“Bordeaux today is producing the best wines in its modern history.

You’ve heard that many times before over the last three decades, of course, because Bordeaux has never had a shortage of cheerleaders in the wine media, even as it sometimes struggles to enthuse a new generation of drinkers.

…. The homogenization of tastes that was so feared two decades ago, however, hasn’t come to pass, and even if the way the wines are reviewed leaves much to be desired, the wines themselves are the most diverse that they have been this millennium. In the information age, globalization has become an advantage rather than a threat, allowing characterful wines with a strong individual identity to find markets rather than forcing them to conform to standards that please the majority. Estates that flirted with a more international style are frequently returning to their roots today. In the last decade, moreover, it has been the Châteaux that have taken the initiative in their stylistic evolutions and the press that has followed, rather than vice versa. The contemporary classicism that I have described … represents a return to a truly Bordelais style ..."

William Kelley, Wine Advocate
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CHÂTEAU ANGÉLUS
SAINT-ÉMILION CARILLON D'ANGÉLUS 2018
"Wild-strawberry, blackberry and blueberry aromas with some spices and herbs. It’s full-bodied with a balance of firm yet elegant tannins. The savory mid-palate leads to a clean finale with serious length. Hard not to drink this now, but it needs four or five years to show its true excellence. Second wine of Angélus."
95
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

CHÂTEAU BEAUSÉJOUR DUFFAU-LAGARROSSE
SAINT-ÉMILION 2014
"An utterly spellbinding wine, the 2014 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse is also one of the unqualified successes of the vintage. Beams of tannin give the 2014 its ample, broad feel. Inky red cherry, blueberry, smoke, leather and tobacco fill out the wine's big frame effortlessly. Layers of intense fruit meld into a huge spine of tannin in a vertical, massively structured Saint-Émilion."
97
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU
SAINT-JULIEN 2017
"The 2017 Branaire-Ducru is all class and finesse. Bright and focused, the 2017 speaks with a clear, well-articulated voice. I especially like the energy here. Soft and understated in the classic Branaire style, the 2017 offers notes of red and purplish fruit intermingled with expressive floral and spice notes. The 2017 is such a pretty Saint-Julien. Tasted two times."
94
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE
PAUILLAC 2016
"The 2016 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean, precise bouquet with nicely detailed blackberry, briar and tobacco aromas, touches of mint emerging with time, all utterly charming. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, conveying a sense of symmetry throughout and leading into a deft, quite persistent finish. This is very classy, and it should age with style. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting."
97
Neal Martin, Vinous.com

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2017
"Easily the best one Pessacs in this vintage, although less concentrated than the same wine in 2015, 2016 and 2018. But that's not to take away from the achievement here - this has real elegance and feels not only effortless but ripe, with lovely brushed damson and blueberry fruits, with a smoky edge of cigar and gunsmoke that is totally delicious. 4% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. The yield was 28hl/ha overall ..."
96
Jane Anson, Decanter Magazine

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BATAILLEY
PAUILLAC 2017
The first vintage under the ownership of Château Lynch-Bages
"
The 2017 Haut-Batailley is powerful, dark and racy. Dark cherry, gravel, smoke, menthol, licorice and spice all pulse with notable energy and tons of Cabernet Sauvignon savoriness. For such a big wine, Haut-Batailley has quite a bit of nuance, but it is the sense of vibrancy here that is compelling."
94
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

CHÂTEAU LATOUR
PAUILLAC LES FORTS DE LATOUR 2016
Released by the Château in 2022
"
The 2016 Les Forts de Latour is the clear highlight among these new releases from Latour. The first thing that is evident about the 2016 is the pedigree of the vintage. Undisputedly great. Readers will find a potent, dark Forts de Latour endowed with massive concentration and tons of depth. The 2016 won't be ready to drink anytime soon, but it holds tons of promise. Hints of gravel, sage, licorice and pencil shavings linger. The 2016 was impressive a few years ago. It is even better today."
96
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARTON
SAINT-JULIEN 2017
"Rich, deep and wonderfully expressive, the 2017 has so much offer. The high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon comes through loud and clear. Inky dark, fruit, game, spice, mint, licorice and lavender all build in a wine of regal elegance and head spinning beauty. For its combination of quality and price, Léoville-Barton remains one the most consumer-friendly wines of the Left Bank. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot …. Cabernet [Sauvignon] is pushed up in the blend, while there is no [Cabernet] Franc at all."
96
Panel Tasting, Decanter Magazine

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD
PAUILLAC 2019
"The 2019 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it is a little broody to start off, soon unfurling to offer notes of creme de cassis, baked plums, and boysenberry preserves, followed by hints of crushed rocks, tree bark, and forest floor. The medium to full-bodied palate is rich, concentrated, and intense, with grainy tannins and a long, lively, mineral-sparked finish. This is still so youthful - moving at a glacial pace - so, give it a good 7-9 years more in cellar and drink it over the following 40-years+."
100
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, TheWineIndependent.com
100
Bettane & Desseauve
100
Jeff Leve, TheWineCellarInsider.com
100
VertDeVin.com
100
Alexandre Ma, AlexandreMa.com


CHÂTEAU TOUR SAINT-CHRISTOPHE
SAINT-ÉMILION 2018
"Currant, red tea, chili, chocolate and lemon-zest aromas. Chalk and crushed gravel, too. It’s medium-bodied with tight, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Sleek and tight with crunchy berry, mineral and zesty notes on the finish. Complex. Pretty center palate to this. Extremely polished."
97
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

DOMAINE DE CAMBES
BORDEAUX 2020
"The 2020 Domaine de Cambes is a gorgeous, luxuriously deep wine done in François Mitjavile's gently oxidative, concentrated style. Sumptuous black cherry, plum, chocolate, espresso and licorice all meld together. Pliant and supple, with generous fruit, Domaine de Cambes is so expressive today. Like many 2020s, it is a bit tight, but that should not be an issue in another few years' time. The purity of the flavors is compelling."
94
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2015
"One of the stars of the vintage, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has turned out even better than I expected. Bright floral notes give striking aromatic lift to the rich, sumptuous fruit. A marvelously complete wine, the 2015 is racy and silky on the palate, yet also has tremendous freshness. Bright red cherry, blood orange, white pepper, spice and dried flowers build into the super-expressive finish. The 2015 has been nothing less than stunning the three times I have tasted it so far. This is a tremendous showing from proprietor Olivier Bernard and his team. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Tasted three times."
97
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com

VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN
POMEROL 2017
"Composed of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 Vieux Château Certan sports a deep garnet-purple color. No mincing about, the bouquet absolutely prances out of the glass with stunning scents of candied violets, chocolate-covered cherries, roses and eucalyptus over a core of black plum preserves, mulberries, black raspberries and blueberry pie plus wafts of licorice, iron ore and truffles. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has fantastic balance and expression, with very fine-grained, silt-like tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing with epic length and perfume."
98
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate

VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN
POMEROL LA GRAVETTE DE CERTAN 2018
"Currant, chocolate, wet-earth and cedar aromas follow through to a medium to full body with integrated, refined tannins that build on the palate and follow through in a polished way. Give it three or four years to open, as it seems rather tight. Almost all Merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon. Second wine of Vieux Château Certan."
95
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
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