Subject: 94pt Château Carbonnieux in both red and white: "among the best and most consistent values from Pessac-Léognan"

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"Both the red and white age well, and they ... are among the best and most consistent values from Pessac-Léognan."
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
 
Château Carbonnieux →
"Located in the sector of Martillac, with Châteaux Smith Haut Lafitte, Olivier, and Domaine de Chevalier among its neighbors, Carbonnieux is emblematic of the changes in Bordeaux over the past generation.

The 500-acre property has half its land under vine, split almost evenly between white and red grapes. The reds are planted on the southern side of the property, which features more clay and gravel and a warmer exposure, while the whites are planted on the cooler northern side, where there's more limestone and clay. This is actually the inverse of how the vineyard was laid out when Eric [Perrin]’s grandfather bought it, a conundrum that resulted in many years of the family struggling with the red grape plantings. ‘We used to have Carménère, Malbec, Muscadelle, and others, but they couldn’t get them to work,’ says Eric. ‘Harvests in the previous generation wouldn’t start until mid-September at the earliest, and yields were [4 or 5 tons per acre]. So much has changed. Though now, more and more as you see more of a Mediterranean climate here, who knows? We may go back and play with some of them again.’

In 1988, the late, great enologist Denis Dubourdieu was brought in to help, and among the first changes was to begin flipping the vineyard plantings around, spurred in particular by the frost of 1991 ....
Thomas Jefferson visited Château Carbonnieux in May of 1787 and planted this American Pecan tree as a gift; it still stands on the property and is the oldest of its species in Europe
Today the 135 acres of red vines are planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Merlot and 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot; the 115 acres of whites are planted two-thirds to Sauvignon Blanc and the rest to Sémillon. One-third of the vineyard is farmed organically, the rest sustainably, and they stopped using herbicides and pesticides 15 years ago.

For the red, there are no tricks: Grapes are harvested by hand and destemmed, with maceration in stainless steel vats. Malo begins in the vat and then the wine is barreled, where it spends 18 months in one-third new oak. It's fined but not filtered prior to bottling.

The white wine is now aged in a mix of 225-liter and 400-liter barrels, along with one-third aged in foudre. Only 25% of the barrels are new, a percentage that has dropped in recent years. Also of note is the switch to Diam corks here, starting in 2013, with the aim of reducing oxidation during bottle aging. There hasn't been any skin contact here since 2014 either, to retain more freshness. The ferment is started in stainless steel, then moved to oak when enough CO2 has built up to protect the wine from oxidation, where it then finishes its ferment. It is kept on its lees, with light bâtonnage to avoid reduction during its 10 months élevage before bottling."
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
Château Carbonnieux
Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2021
65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Sémillon
"The 2021 Carbonnieux Blanc has a relatively spicy bouquet, very slight touches of Muscat filtering through the citric fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry and good weight. Persistent in the mouth, leaving behind a long, saline aftertaste. This is another excellent dry white Bordeaux."
92-94
Neal Martin, Vinous
"This estate, particularly well known for its white wines, has lived up to its reputation in this new release. The wine is rich while also taut, young and textured. Spice from wood aging comes in at the end."
94
Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast

Château Carbonnieux
Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2019
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
"I am so pleased that the 2019 Carbonnieux has retained the engaging aromatics that I found from the barrel sample: copious blackberry, raspberry, incense and light violet aromas soar from the glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine-grained tannins, and much more precise than recent vintages, leading to a harmonious, silky-smooth, almost tender finish. More polished than recent vintages, this Carbonnieux comes highly recommended."
94
Neal Martin, Vinous
"The 2019 Château Carbonnieux sports a deep purple/ruby hue to go with a brilliant nose of red and black currants, spring flowers, spicy oak, and hints of tobacco. It's beautiful on the palate as well and is medium to full-bodied, has a seamless, elegant texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It's the finest wine I've tasted from this estate. The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, all brought up in 40% new barrels. It’s well worth tracking down some bottles and will keep for two decades."
94
Jeb Dunnuck

"The Château Carbonnieux vineyard has been producing wine for 7 centuries. The long history of the Château intertwines closely with that of the city of Bordeaux, sharing the same periods of crisis, the same hours of glory, and, today, as a challenge to time, both seem to be facing a new era."
Château Carbonnieux

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