From the outside, the Champagne Saint-Chamant operation looks unassuming, but underneath it is an extensive labyrinth of cellars, over a mile long and packed to the brim with Champagne bottles, that date back to the early 16th century. An ardent believer in aging Champagne and in completing every part of the process by hand, it is in these cellars that Christian Coquillette keeps watch over hundreds of thousands of bottles. |